On March 23, 2005 at
approximately one o’clock in the afternoon, Din Mohammad an Afghan
national, working for the AKF and I left Baharak for Yamgan valley
where we had to make some arrangements for the
opening
ceremony of a school in Eskon village which the AKF had built. The
spring season was in full swing, the fields were lush green and layers
of yellow muster flowers added more natural beauty to the Baharak
village. I was impatient, I wanted to reach Yamgan as quickly as
possible not because I was running out of time for the preparation of
the school opening ceremony, but rather I was going to visit an
historical place, which I had heard a lot about and had waited a long
time to visit; the historical place was Hazrat Syed village where Hakim
Abu Moin known more commonly as Nasir Khusraw’s tomb was situated. It
was here in this village that he had spent the most productive part of
his life. As the car drew ever closer to our destination, different
types of images of the village and the tomb that I had envisaged came
to my mind in full panorama.
Soon we were in the
Jurm district of Badakhshan province, which is in the east of Bharak; I
noticed that from place to place farmers had destroyed the wheat
fields. At first I thought the wheat crops may have not germinated and
for that reason the farmers were trying to cultivate other crops, but
when I looked more carefully I saw that the fields had fully germinated
crops and the crops themselves also looked healthy. I could not
comprehend the matter and so to satisfy my curiosity I asked Din the
reason. Din being a polite and cautious character didn’t tell me
anything and only said “Khaliq Sahib in masla degar asth” it
is another matter. Later I understood that the farmers were destroying
the wheat crops to replace them with a crop of poppies ‘the brown
gold’. The previous year the growing of poppies as a crop was fully
banned, so perhaps this spring they might have got a green signal from
some high government authorities. Destroying the wheat field to me was
an act of destroying ethics of the society and had a direct link in the
planning of the destruction of humanity. As I had predicted because of
this callous act more people would become addicted to opium and heroine.
After a couple of
meetings with the District Government Officials in Jurm District
headquarters we left for the Yamgan valley, by the time we reach
Hazrath Syed village it was already dark.
The next morning I
woke up early and went for a morning constitutional walk, the early
spring morning in Hazrath Syed village was a bit chilly but beautiful,
crisp and clear. I looked at the valley, it was a narrow
valleysurrounded by arid mountains and where ever the water channels
could be reached the land had been irrigated either from the spring
water or water from the river. On the right hand side of the valley on
the eastern slope above the traditional mud houses I saw a white
building with traditional shrine flags, I understood that this was the
tomb of Hakim Nasir Khusraw ‘the ruby of Badakhshan’.
I returned to the
guesthouse, Shiva the AKF guest house manager in Hazarth Syed village
guided Din and me through the zigzag streets of the village to the
tomb. When we reached the bottom of the rock where the tomb was
situated Shiva left the narrow path and went toward a house just below
the path. Here Shiva knocked at the door which was opened by a boy; the
boy disappeared inside and soon returned with a key. On his return
Shiva told us the story that Hakim Nasir Khusraw himself had assigned
the responsibility of taking care of his Masjid and tomb to this family
before his death, so since that time this particular family had been
taking care of the tomb.
After four minutes
gentle climb we reached the tomb, this was the place I had dreamed of
visiting on more than one occasion, at last here it was just in front
of me.
The tomb was of the
poet, philosopher, scholar and traveler Abo Moin Hamid-u-din Nasir Bin
Khusraw (1004-188 AD), whom I am a fervent admirer of his and have
always been impressed by his ideology. This was the tomb of the divine
guided scholar who started his famous seven year journey to seek
knowledge and to search for truth. By the time he returned from his travels he was completely changed, his beliefs had
changed,
his knowledge had increased and above all he had been assigned
responsibility for preaching in Khurasan and Badakhshan by the Fatimid
caliph and Imam of the time Al-mustansirbillah. This was the scholar
who through his writings and philosophical teachings clearly linked the
material and spiritual worlds. His natural scientific ideas are still
valid today, such as the theory or creation of the universe in which he
describes that the universe came into its solid form from energy.
Because of his beliefs he was compelled to leave his family and
belongings but would not be compromised on telling the truth. This was
mainly because the knowledge he imparted was so advanced that the
people of that time could not comprehend it and on this basis opposed
him. He bore the hardship but did not compromise at any time on telling
what he believed to be the truth.
We walked toward the
tomb, I placed my hands on the gate as part of the tradition relating
to entry and I entered the tomb. It had been built in traditional
style, a two portion building, the first portion is like a balcony,
where there are two of his family members buried. The actual tomb is
inside a 3 X 4 metres in sized room, where there are two graves: Hakim
Nasir Khusraw and his brothers’ Hazrath Syed. Hakim Nasir Khusraw’s
grave was covered with a curtain. On the tomb ceiling boards Koranic
verses (Ayat) have been calligraphed. Some utensils and a
lamp stand were on display in the balcony portion, while his book box
and other materials associated with him were inside the tomb. After a
brief prayer for his great soul, I started curiously looking at the
things inside the tomb. The boy showed us a wooden box saying that
Hakim Nasir’s books and copy of the Holy Koran were taken from this
very box during the regime of Mohammad Zahir Shah the former king of
Afghanistan and people of this area belive that this inapproperate
action caused fall of Zahir Shah. Adjoining the tomb is a small Masjid.
I tried to see inside
the curtain to see how the grave actually looks, but I was unable to
see because of the dark, I flashed my digital camera to see and also
take some images, when the picture appeared on the screen there were
boulders (round stones) and freshly dug soil. This revealed that the
grave had been recently damaged by grave diggers (in Afghanistan people
are digging graves in search of antiquities). Seeing the damage to the
grave I was shocked, my conscience responded to satisfy me; “Khaliq!
Hakim
Nasir
Khusraw doesn’t reside in this mud grave, as he himself believed it and
preached that the Almighty Creator has created human beings from the
combination of matter and soul (Nafs). The reason for this is
to provide the opportunity for the soul to identify its imperfection
and to try to correct this through seeking knowledge and wisdom. Once
the period of this combination breaks, matter and soul return to their
original places. The body joins the earth and soul joins the universal
soul (Nafsi Kul). He is now part of the universal soul. For me
he exists in the form of love and respect for him and the ethics and
knowledge he has enriched and inspired in me and through me.
We returned from the
tomb thinking of his time and his contribution of knowledge to the
greater world and for the greater good of humanity. I told myself, the
Afghan Government has named the teacher pedagogical institute after him
and an Afghan politician has established an Institute and library using
his name. What more therefore can I do to spread his message?
اینک ناصر خسرو قبادیانی در یمگان بدخشان افغانستان خفته است.شرح سفر فردی برای زیارت اودربالا امده است.
وقتی گور ناصر
خسرو را دیدم.شوق رفتن به یمگان بدخشان افغانستان در من شدت گرفت.ناصر
خسرو یک فیلسوف -شاعر بود.اسماعیلیان در رشد حیات عقلی ایرانیان نقش مهمی
داشتند.بوعلی سینا زاده ی بخارای خراسان بزرگ (تاجیکستان فعلی )پدری
اسماعیلی داشت و این سابقه عقلگرا بودن اورا توجیه می کند.در قبادیان بلخ
زاده شد.اودرد جامعه را می فهمید و از فساد دامنگیر ان رنج می برد.به
دره ی یمگان رفت تا از دیوان و ددان اسوده باشد و در 481 هجری در همانجا
درگذشت.او شیعه ی علوی بود و مانند تمام علویان موهایش را دراز می کرد و
می بافت.تا سن 40 سالگی اهل عیش و عشرت بود.در 437 خوابی دید که اورا
متحول کرد.پس از ان خواب راهی مرو شد و شغل اداری خود را رها کرد و انگاه
به نیشابور امد و تا شام و حران و صیدا و بیت المقدس شتافت و از انجا به
مکه رفت و به یمن شتافت و از بصره و ارجان به اصفهان و نایین و سرخس و
بلخ...سفرش 7 سال طول کشید.در معره النعمان با فیلسوف شاعر نابینای عرب
ابوالعلا معری ملاقات کرد.در تبریز قطران شاعر را دید.در مصر اسماعیلی شد
و لقب حجت را از خلیفه ی فاطمی وقت گرفت.به ایران امد و از حکام زورگو و
سلطانهای سفاک و ضد عقل سلجوقی و علمای خودفروخته و طالب دنیا انتقاد
کرد.او حکیم واقعی بود و از فلسفه ی بوعلی سینا هم بهره برد./